A-Frame

Last week, A-Frame, a collaboration between Roy Choi (Kogi, Chego) and David Reiss (Alibi Room, The Brig), opened shop in Culver City. Like its co-founders’ previous ventures, the restaurant is decidedly unfussy, employing, instead, a “modern picnic” aesthetic with communal tables and baskets of utensils. A-Frame takes its name from its location’s previous incarnation as an IHOP, but the trademark capital A shape is all the modern space shares with its rooty tooty fresh n’ fruity predecessor; the revamped space is both industrial and unfinished and reminds one simultaneously of both the interior of a Hawaiian hut and that of a wicker picnic basket.

To get the night rolling, J and I began with a Mainland ($10), a cocktailian combination of pisco, liliko’i (passion fruit), lime, egg white and cayenne. Decidedly unique, the drink retained just enough of the liliko’i’s sweetness to counter the tang of the lime and kick of the cayenne.

The menu read like a list of my favorite foods and flavors I grew up with in Hawai’i–including tempura, shrimp and Korean BBQ–but classed up with a Roy Choi pedigree. The menu’s items are linked by their comfort food origins and their place in the urban picnic wherein utensils are optional.

Upon scanning the menu, my eyes were immediately drawn to the Hawaiian-style Furikake Blazin’ J’s Kettle Korn with Warm Butter, Chives and Spices ($5). It warmed my heart to learn that Chef Roy and I share a love for “hurricane popcorn,” and this Kogi-devotee was thrilled to sample his take on the Hawaiian snack. The hurricane popcorn stayed true to its roots with its signature butter and furikake flavor but gained a delightful heat from the addition of spices. Be sure, however, to eat this one quickly; the popcorn quickly grew soggy and weighted down as we munched (although this didn’t stop me from packing up the rest of our bowl to-go).

We also snacked on Sweet Potato and Yam Spears with Sea Salt and Kimchi Sour Cream ($6). Although the wedges themselves were unremarkable (neither crispy nor soft), I found myself unconcerned after dipping one in the stellar kimchi sour cream. The full-bodied, smooth sour cream paired surprisingly perfectly with the spice of the kimchi, creating a sauce so addicting that I continued dipping my finger into it long after the sweet potato and yam spears were gone.

For his entree, J ordered the Cracklin’ “Beer Can” Chicken with Century Egg and Salsa Roja and Verde (half order, $10). “Cracklin'” aptly describes the satisfyingly crispy skin that covered this juicy chicken. After happily ignoring every waistline-conscious warning I’ve heard about eating chicken skin, I turned my attention to the tender chicken and the flavorful verde sauce and reveled in the utensils-optional policy.

The star of the meal, however, was undoubtedly the Korean BBQ Lamb Chops with Citrus Gremolata and Salsa Verde ($18). Despite its healthy char, the lamb chops remained tender, and kalbi flavor added another dimension of deliciosity to the dish–especially when dipped in my old friend the salsa verde. Yes, I know deliciosity is not a word; that is simply how good these were.

Unable to pass on dessert, we ordered the Chu Don’t Know Mang Pound Cake Churros with Cinnamon and Malted Chocolate Milk with Ice Cream ($8). With pound cake as their base, the sugary churros took on a uniquely soft and crumbly texture. Just as street churros benefit from a generous dousing of condensed milk, these churros found their creamy partner-in-crime in the glass of rich malted chocolate milk and ice cream.

Based on our Sunday night dinner, one would never have guessed that A-Frame opened only two days prior. Service was friendly, smooth and speedy, and the dishes were strong. As we dined, Chef Roy nervously paced around the restaurant, peering a diners and seemingly trying to gauge their reaction but speaking to no one. Chef, if A-Frame’s opening weekend is any indication everything will be just fine.

A-Frame

12565 W. Washington Boulevard

Culver City, CA 90066

(310) 398-7700

Bludso’s BBQ

One recent evening, as J and I sat in the car, our conversation turned to a familiar topic: “What should we eat for dinner?” On this evening, we both craved something heavy. Hearty. Filling. And we were willing to make a trek for it. We quickly arrived at the same conclusion: BBQ.

Although questions of where to find good BBQ in Los Angeles are often polarizing (any given BBQ joint is often the absolute “best” or “worst” place someone has eaten), the praise has been almost unanimous for one place–Bludso’s BBQ.

Located in Compton only a stone’s throw away from the Long Beach city limits, Bludso’s BBQ serves Texas-style BBQ in Texas-sized portions. Owner Kevin Bludso hails from a barbecuing family and relies on the BBQ techniques of his great great grandfather and the recipes of his grandmother. I’m a sucker for food with history.

As J and I examined the menu, we vacillated over what to order: Should he order ribs? Or perhaps pork? Should I branch out from my favorite–pulled pork–in order to try something new? Finally, something caught our eye: the Texas Sampler ($28.50) which comes with two large sides and one of every kind of meat except beef rib. Except beef rib? We then added two beef ribs to our already sizeable order for $4.00.

Although Bludso’s tiny interior holds a countertop and barstools, there is also an area behind the restaurant with a picnic table and chairs. The area is also home to Bludso’s two large smokers so, while you wait for your food, a preview of what is to come may waft through the air.

Although Bludso’s of course provides napkins and wet wipes for its messy fare, the restaurant also gives you two slices of white bread with your order–an edible alternative for your face-wiping needs.

The greens–our first side–were less than impressive, lacking the depth of flavor usually imbued to greens by the smoked meat with which they are cooked.

The mac and cheese was a surprise–dry and crumbly rather than creamy and gooey as with most Southern versions of this dish. Despite its unexpected consistency, this mac and cheese was none the less rich and cheesy, which is what really counts.

Then our Texas Sampler arrived. As the weighty styrofoam container was placed in front of me, I marveled at just how full the little white box was, so full, in fact, that the lid was far from closed–unsurprising given the fact that this combo includes pork ribs, beef brisket, rib tip, BBQ chicken, chicken links, beef links, pulled pork and pork shoulder.

Although the meats were all stacked on top of one another, each retained its unique flavor–the beef links, dark and smoky; the pork ribs, bright and tangy. Every item was technically “BBQ” but at no point did the flavors become redundant; every meat was completely different than the others and delicious in its own right.

Despite the fact that we already had enough food to feed us for days, we also had our two extra beef ribs. Almost the size of my forearm, these were wonderfully meaty and tender. Although I rarely order ribs and generally avoid spicy food, I ate every last piece of meat off my rib.

We did our best, but our box still did not fully close when we left, and the Bludso’s crew jokingly voiced their disapproval. In the end, our substantial Texas Sampler platter from Bludso’s provided around five separate meals–each of which was somehow even tastier than the last. I foresee a return trip in my near future. After all, I still need to try the pulled pork sandwich…

Bludso’s BBQ

www.bludsosbbqandcatering.com

811 S. Long Beach Blvd.

Compton, CA 90221

(310) 637-1342