Peruvian | Noms Not Bombs

This Friday marks the opening of Paiche, the newest restaurant from Chef Ricardo Zarate (Mo-Chica, Picca) and business partner Stephane Bombet. The Marina del Rey restaurant, named for an Amazonian river fish, is described as a “Peruvian izakaya,” a fusion which pays homage to Zarate’s Peruvian roots as well as his training as a sushi chef.

On Wednesday, Chef Richie and Stephane opened the kitchen for a Friends and Family night to preview Paiche’s offerings.

Mixologist Deysi Alvarez shakes up a cocktail.

Paiche bar manager Deysi Alvarez has crafted a cocktail menu with classics such as a Pisco Sour and Margarita as well as drinks of her own invention, covering the flavor spectrum from smoky to sweet. Not a single one of the drinks disappointed, but our table’s personal favorites are below.

The Last Ice Age: Pisco portion, Hakushu Whiskey (12 years), organic egg white, lime juice, lemon juice, evaporated simple syrup, Fernet Branca liqueur drops ($13.00)

Maracuya Capirinha: Lemon cachaca, fresh passion fruit, muddled limes, pure cane syrup ($15.00)

Mojito de Martinique: Neisson Eleve Sous rhum agricole, pinch of fresh mint, muddled mint, martinique cane syrup, seltzer water ($14.00)

Pink Panther: Platino Atlantico rum, muddled mint, fresh strawberry juice, grapefruit juice, lemon juice, orgeat syrup, topped with Cava ($12.00)

Like at Zarate’s other resturants, the menu is broken down into categories– here: Abrebocas y Ensaladas; Ceviches (Sashimi Styles); Tiraditos; Frituras; Anticucho Grill; and Cocina Caliente.

Abrebocas y Ensaladas:

Tuna Tartare with caviar, soy ceviche dressing and wonton chips ($16.00)

Shrimp Dumplings with soy lime dressing and spicy rocoto-infused oil ($9.00)

Tamalitos Verdes: Northern Peruvian tamales, shimenji mushrooms and seco sauce ($14.00)

Ceviches- Sashimi Style:

(L to R): Crab ($8.00), Albacore ($10.00), Kampachi ($12.00)

Tiraditos:

Wagyu Beef: Seared wagyu, parmesan sauce, aji amarillo vinaigrette and black truffle ($12.00)

Frituras:

Yuquitas: Stuffed yuca beignets, manchego cheese, grated parmesan ($8.00)

Cocina Caliente:

Sweet Potato Gnocchi with burnt butter, huacatay, grated parmesan ($12.00)

Saltado de Camarones: Sauteed shrimp, tomato onion stew and homemade pasta ($14.00)

Chaufa de Langosta: Lobster, mixed seafood, fried rice ($12.00)

Normally, this is where I’d list highlights of the meal, but every single item was so impressive that I can’t. Hectic preview night or not, the food that came out of Paiche’s kitchen was incredibly solid and rivaled many restaurants on their best night. I will note, however, that, despite being a “Peruvian izakaya,” Paiche makes a helluva pasta dish; that pillowy sweet potato gnocchi was better than most versions at Italian restaurants. Congrats to Chef Richie and Stephane and the whole Paiche crew.

*Food and drink were hosted.

Paiche

www.paichela.com

www.twitter.com/paichela

13488 Maxella Avenue

Marina del Rey, CA 90292

(310) 893-6100

With the opening of Picca Peru, Chef Ricardo Zarate has expanded and elevated the Peruvian cooking that earned him a 2011 “Best New Chef” award from Food and Wine Magazine. While his first, low-key restaurant Mo-Chica focuses on traditional Peruvian entrees, the hip Picca devotes its attention to modern anticuchos (small plates)–admirably, without losing touch with the food’s roots.

As a big fan of both Chef Ricardo and his business partner Stephane Bombet, J and I were practically foaming at the mouth to get a taste!

Chilcano de Anis ($11.00): Lime juice, ginger syrup, pisco, perod

Tuna Tartare ($12.00): Tuna, lemon soy dressing, won ton chips

Papa rellena ($7.00): Stuffed potato, slow cooked beef, boiled egg, rocoto aioli

Empanada Trio ($9.00): Beef, chicken and eggplant

These delightful two bite-sized empanadas were impossibly flaky and sampling each of the three with each dipping sauce was great fun for the taste buds.

Snow Crab Causa “Sushi” ($6.00): Cucumber, avocado and huancaina sauce

Beef Filet ($9.00): Uni (sea urchin) butter, garlic chip

These beef filet anticuchos arrived at the table, positively glistening with uni butter and inviting us to first eat them with our eyes. Pillow soft with a hint of ocean brine, the beef managed to taste even better than it looked and was a highlight of the night.

Santa Barbara Prawns ($12.00): Lemongrass yuzu kosho pesto

Chicharron de Costillas ($9.00): Crispy pork ribs crostini, sweet potato puree, feta cheese sauce, salsa criolla

Bisteck a lo Pobre ($14.00): Skirt steak, egg, pan-fried banana, chickpeas tacu tacu

The flavors of the bisteck a lo pobre were some of the most reserved of our dinner, but the sweet and savory components combined to create a hearty, comforting dish that reminded me of a Hawaiian loco moco.